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What is a Fibershed and Why Does it it Matter?

 

 

The kitchen garden series takes a strong interest in combining textiles and environmental stewardship. My commitment to the environment takes many forms. I create designs that exclusively use natural fibers, reduce work room waste, use reclaimed materials, and create products that can replace single-use, disposable items. I also give back a percentage of profit to urban farms and work with local like-minded businesses and restaurants who are also committed to the environment.

As part of my engagement with sustainability issues, just over a year ago I became intrigued with the concept of 'fibershed'. Fibershed is a term coined by Rebecca Burgess in 2011 to describe a geographical landscape that defines and gives boundaries to a natural textile resource base. (It also happens to be the name of the organization she founded and is used by affiliates across the nation.) It is generally agreed that a regional fibershed encompasses a 150 mile radius, similar to boundary definitions for local food and watersheds. Generally, a fibershed largely works with locally grown, organic production and manufacture of natural fibers made from plants such as cotton, linen, and hemp or wool-based textiles from sheep, alpaca, llama, and even, yak. Fibershed leaders are usually farmers, makers, and small business owners that are committed to natural fiber textile manufacturing.

The production, use and disposal of textiles, or a textile economy, is inextricably linked to our food systems and watershed environments. We cannot ignore that synthetic textile manufacturing is a toxic process. Unlike the natural materials supported in a bioregional fibershed system, the compounds that are used to make synthetic fibers come from man-made petroleum based chemicals and petrochemicals that leach toxins into the environment, pollute the air, and damage the soil. When laundered in the factory or in the home, synthetic fibers will slough tiny micro-plastic filaments, which make their way into the watershed and are now appearing in the fish we eat and accumulating in the ocean. Discarded synthetics will also persist indefinitely in the environment as solid waste and contribute to off-gassing in landfills. Why would we want to continue to support this toxic process?

Based on these relationships between textiles and the environment, I believe it is important to the kitchen garden series to support the (re)development of the textile industry within my local fibershed. I want to support growers that are committed to natural fibers from plants such as cotton, linen or hemp. They have no harmful outputs when laundered and when spent can be composted, ultimately nourishing the earth. Furthermore, choosing natural, locally grown fibers is an important choice for the environment because natural fibers can be part of regenerative farming systems, help build carbon stocks on their working landscapes, and improve regional environmental health. Much like supporting my local food system, investing in my local fibershed strengthens my appreciation for the farmer, engenders a connectivity to the source, and is environmentally beneficial because it helps lower my carbon footprint.

Sadly, it’s impossible for the kitchen garden series to source our favorite materials within our local fibershed, but that doesn't mean I resort to using cheaper, synthetic materials. Flax grown for linen production is no longer farmed commercially in my region or the United States. In fact, the United States has lost much of the infrastructure necessary in recent decades to process raw materials into cloth as so much of the textile economy moved overseas. However, as I learned recently, there are a dedicated few who are revitalizing the industry and there are local fibershed affiliate organizations that are working to change the options for localized linen, cotton, and wool production systems. The Rust Belt Fibershed in Ohio, for example, has a successful fledgling flax project. My recent conversation with the Rust Belt Fibershed inspired me to add another piece to the puzzle that helps the kitchen garden series connect textiles to my mission of environmental stewardship. This year, I'll begin investigating the possibilities of growing flax in Philadelphia and connecting with other fibershed affiliates working to revive the infrastructure for processing flax into linen yardage. This small investment in a local textile economy will be a new beginning as I explore the positives of creating a stronger fibershed community. Looking forward into the future, I hope to  support the growth of our regional fibershed that will include flax alongside other natural fibers and organic foods. Join me as I bring more natural textiles into your homes and restaurants and plant seeds for a future Philadelphia.

Comments (1):

Missy LeDuc on

I so appreciate your thoughtfulness with your footprint. And learning about the fiber shed is something new for me and it’s fascinating. Thank you for informing us!

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winter solstice and textiles from the earth

The Winter Solstice is a time to enjoy the cozy silence of the year's longest night and to set intentions for the lengthening days ahead. I like to take this time to reflect on the growth patterns I’ve set and groundwork I’ve prepared in previous seasons and to start planning for the future. Looking back at the year’s hard work helps me see and re-see that the path forward can be one of regeneration. 

At the kitchen garden series, I’ve always been focused on supporting urban agriculture, reducing waste at the manufacturing level, hiring locally and using natural fibers. Over the years, my mission has come to include designing products that reduce the use of single-use and plastic disposables in homes and restaurants. I think a lot about the idea that all textiles come from the earth, whether they are made from plant-based fibers, fibers from animal wools or furs, or synthetics derived from petroleum drawn from the deep cores of the planet. The systems for getting textiles into our hands can be systems of renewal or systems of destruction. I want to build a business community that works to make renewal the norm. I want to help create better systems that enrich and connect thriving local living economies that are part of healing the planet. To this end, in the coming year, I’ll deepen my commitment to local growers, and continue making sustainable textiles more accessible. 

One project in particular has helped me see through how to build better systems of textile regeneration. The flax growing project I started this year in collaboration with Emma Cunniff from Kneehigh Farm in my little corner of the world has been transformative. I am proud that I aspired to start cultivating a plant-based fiber supply chain on a diversified organic vegetable farm. Come spring of 2021, our Flax Project will be growing and growing and growing! Before we know it we will be able to offer locally grown and manufactured textiles! I’m excited to be sharing news about the flax project and other online offerings in 2021! Look for some special workbooks and more DIY projects soon and keep an eye out for seasonal surprises! 

Thank you for following along and helping me grow the kitchen garden series. I’m looking forward to staying connected to all of you through this work of renewal in the year ahead. Happy Solstice, may you enjoy all the bright blessings of the holiday season!

The Gift of Giving

Gift giving has long been a way to connect us to one another, allowing us to express our feelings through tokens of affection and helping strengthen relationships. Sending a beautiful thoughtfully chosen or carefully crafted physical object to a friend or loved one is a lovely way to bring worlds a little closer. My favorite gifts are part of my daily rituals like a mug that brings memories of a dear friend into my morning coffee routine, a woolen scarf that keeps me warm on a frosty winter morning, or a beautiful vase I fill with celebratory flowers. I love to include food in my rituals, too! I relish giving and receiving holiday gifts that taste good and help me feel a personal connection to the maker. Some of my favorite food gifts are simple things like fragrant local honey, bread from my favorite bakery, or canned goods from the local farm.

In the spirit of the giving season, share some joy in giving gifts from the heart that will be used in your loved ones’ daily kitchen culinary rituals. Try pairing some of our lovely textiles with a local food item to make a gift extra delicious! Make a gift a bit more personal and use our linens as an elegant alternative to wrapping paper. Wrap up some flavored vinegars from the market in our tea towels or fill a produce bag with homemade treats from a local candy shoppe. Combine some of our cocktail napkins with some artisanal infused spirits or give your favorite baker one of our aprons! You can even shop one of our holiday gift bundles for an all inclusive combo of beautiful linens highlighting good food and homemade kitchen delights. 

Whether you buy napkins from us or decide you need to support us in other ways this year, we want to let you know that we appreciate all that you do. We know gift giving is not just about the material goods. We built our business on the belief that being kind and generous to our fellow beings is a force for social good. We understand that this time of year can be difficult for many and it might be hard to feel generous. When you refer your friends to us or share our blog posts or share posts on social media not only are you supporting our small business, know that you are also giving back to a larger community. Your interest and referrals help us create opportunities for others. Your investment in our work helps us collaborate with other local makers and expand our revitalization of a local textile industry through our flax project. Your purchases mean that we can continue our annual support to urban farms in our city by donating 10% of our annual profits to local growers. Thank you for helping us grow a reciprocal relationship to our local community through the ancient art of giving. 

Make the Most of Every Morsel

At the kitchen garden series we’re thinking about how to honor the systems that feed us, and what we can do to make the most of every morsel as the holiday season approaches and the harvest brings a cornucopia of produce into our homes. 

Throughout the year, up to one-third of all food produced in America ends up in the garbage. Sometimes a farm had a great growing season and underestimated demand, so they have too much of a good thing. Sometimes food is dumped when the farmer has a crop that is slightly irregular or imperfect looking. Some food gets thrown out between the farm and the grocery store in transport. More food is discarded at the grocery store when certain foods don’t sell well. And more food is wasted in our homes because we forgot it in the refrigerator or it was hidden behind something in the crisper drawer. 

To reduce food waste in your kitchen this season, you can start by making some simple changes in your daily food purchasing cycle. For an easy change, try out a CSA group (community supported agriculture) in your area for some ‘ugly’ vegetables or shop for your groceries at local farm stands and farmers markets. Plan your menu to use every part of the goods you bring home from the market. Eat the beet greens with local cheese baked in a tart, make carrot top pesto with backyard walnuts, enjoy some radish green soup, or just make a big pot of vegetable stock with your food scraps. And of course, think about how to better store your food wisely to keep it fresher longer. 

 Our linen produce bags, bread bags, and tea towels are great for all sorts of food storage and can help kickstart your holiday food mindfulness journey. Our linens can help you set a sustainable table this holiday season, honor the natural resources used to produce your food, and send gratitude to the people who labored to bring it to your tables. Let us help your food stay fresher and give you something to feel good about during big holiday feasts. 

Finding Equilibrium

On every equinox, night and day are approximately equal in duration as the sun centers directly over the earth's equator. This ancient symmetry of our rotating planet reminds us that we must find new ways to restore balance as we move from season to season.

The 2020 spring equinox occurred on March 19 when the pandemic shifted our everyday lives out of sync and rapidly brought major halts to people's structures all over the globe. Disruptions have continued through the summer as life and death continues to hang in the balance. Changes are arriving not just from the pandemic, but from climate disasters and social-justice revolution, and these changes have begun challenging our priorities, forcing us to find new methods to work, reorganizing how we play, learn and stay connected. Some of the changes have been exhilarating as we elevate what is important and necessary and discard what is no longer needed. Some of the changes have been devastating as we have seen lives lost, families fractured, and large parts of our environment destroyed by floods and fires. Balance has definitely been scarce!

I know we’re all exhausted by the many challenges of the last six months. The upcoming autumn equinox reminds us there is much work to be done to restore equilibrium to our communities and to the natural world. For me, the upcoming fall equinox signals an invitation to appreciate the relative quiet of nature as I notice the sensation of the evening lengthening to meet the day. I find myself looking for simple ways to restore serenity in my daily routines like enjoying a new warming tea blend at my mid-day break or shifting my daily schedule to take advantage of the shortening daylight hours. I am getting reacquainted with my favorite recipes for the season, savoring the flavors of the fall crops. I skip the fall garden clean up, leaving the perennial seeds and leaf litter for the birds to enjoy as the nights get colder. I step outside more often to notice color changes in the leaves and take note of my garden's changes. I take time to rest so I can prepare myself for what comes next because there is still much on the horizon. The equinox nudges me to remember symmetry and to find grace by inviting more calm into the chaos. 

Go vote!

A little bit more

This Labor Day season, I am considering how the hard work of many has shaped the American nation and how we as consumers and business owners in the American economy might better consider how we distribute our hard earned money. Spending a little bit more for products made in America is not a new idea, but recently it’s started to gain some traction with many of us as we try to return to a more conscientiously driven economy. As a consumer, I don’t mind paying ‘a little bit more’ if I know that my money goes to insure that my neighbors are paid a living wage, have food and home security, access to healthcare and nutrition, and can give back to municipal services like schools and food banks. 


While I applaud the idea of “made in America” as a marketing tool that supports businesses in our communities and reclaims something vital to our nation, it is easy to assume that something American made is sustainably and ethically produced. Currently, claiming that something is “made in America” does nothing to insure that products are responsibly made. There are many American factories that do not care for the value of their workforce or their impact on the environment. There are industries in America that continue to violate safety standards, pay low wages without benefits, and perpetuate a corporate culture of exploitation, while they pollute the environment. Even with our complex history of labor laws and fair trade and environmental protection, there are popular American businesses that are still cutting corners on environmental safety regulations and exploiting the workforce in order to reduce prices to consumers.


Like many other small businesses right now, I am thinking a lot about economics, climate change, and financial security as we inch closer to the end of the year. I am also thinking about how asking shoppers to pay ‘a little bit more’ for something that is made in America isn’t enough. I believe that the value of fair wages, supporting a local and sustainable economy, and compensation for labor should be part of a transparent “made in America” marketing plan if we are to shift to a more ethical system. Using my business as an example, our human resources workforce includes myself, two cut-and-sew businesses, three individual independent contractors who support different aspects of the business, and an independently contracted marketing firm. Every individual that works for me lives here in America and is paid a living wage. I run the business out of my home and try to produce ethically, recycle goods, design for zero waste, and invest in my community. I think about where my materials are produced and how aspects of the business might impact my local environment. But, as the business owner, I am the only one regularly compensated at or below minimum wage, which is a sacrifice I make to grow the business and my equity in it. I take less compensation because I want to help produce items that reflect the value of labor, the importance of environmentally friendly materials, and a thoughtful and transparent approach to running a business. 


And what bearing does any of this have on the cost of goods sold? It takes more effort for American businesses like mine to make ethical choices, but the payoff is better in the long run when you consider fair wages, environmentally friendly practices, and lowering the carbon footprint. Let’s take a look at how this adds up to the prices of my products. I’ll use my linen market bag as an example because it most closely mirrors my averages. 

With this tiny profit margin, I can’t justify wholesaling my products and still remain committed to slow growth and to the health and wealth of my community, but I want to do a little bit more by structuring my textile business as a way to truly celebrate items that are ethically made in America and good for the environment. I want to support a better, more sustainable economic system by giving consumers access to products made from heirloom quality textiles that cost a little bit more, but will last a lot longer and maybe mean a lot more when we say they are “made in America”. 

It's a marathon! Tips to stay the pace.

It's a marathon!

This pandemic has turned out to be a marathon instead of the sprint we were all hoping for! Like many of you, the thrill of all this extra time at home is fading for me and we're all looking for positive ways to make the old homestead feel a little bit new again or maybe just looking for some distractions.

Kick plastic out of your kitchen

Maybe you've noticed how much more plastic waste is in your kitchen as you spend more time social distancing at home. Our essential kitchen collection will keep you moving towards a plastic-free kitchen even in these difficult times. With the great combination of our three best selling kitchen textiles, you can leave the plastic bags behind, keep your produce fresh longer, never run out of coffee filters again, and ditch the paper towels!

Discover the secret powers of linen

If you start going down the plastic waste rabbit hole, you might notice that polyester is just another plastic derivative. Linen is a great all natural plant-based fabric and a better alternative to polyester based fabrics. Did you know that linen has antibacterial properties? It's one of my favorite textiles. Our linen produce bags will keep your veggies and fruit fresher longer. Even bread stored in linen stays fresh longer and will resist mold. Linen is also 20% more absorbent than cotton, making the messes at home easier to clean up. Learn more about why we use linen here.

 

Support local small businesses

I have also been thinking more about the importance of supporting local, small businesses like my own as I spend time closer to home. Just like me, many small businesses pivoted quickly online and shifted gears away from in-person interaction. Things you can easily do from home to support the local economy and keep the community resilient: shop directly online with makers, order for curbside pickup or home delivery, direct message your favorite boutiques and ask if they will ship your favorite products (usually, they will!), or buy gift certificates for later dates. 

Here are some of my favorite things from my favorite businesses:

  • Good books from Uncle Bobbies Coffee & Books
  • Best undies ever from Danu Organics
  • Potion cups from Clarissa Eck
  • Cotton towels from Cuttalossa
  • New rain boots from Harvey Oak Mercantile (technically not in my house ... but oh so good!)

beautiful • sustainable • practical 

With the changing seasons upon us and our minds on long term security, it’s a good time to make some small home refreshes while still keeping an eye towards sustainability. As you spend more time in your kitchens and home spaces, take more time with your favorite objects and consider long-term ways you can shift your spending from big corporations to the local economy.